Kashmir by Road: Srinagar, Gulmarg, Pahalgam and the Sonamarg Run

The Kashmir valley is small. That is the thing most itineraries get wrong: people plan it like a state and it is really one basin about 140 km long, with three side valleys hanging off it, all within a two-to-three-hour drive of Srinagar. You do not need to relocate every night. Base yourself in Srinagar, drive out and back, and you will see more and spend less time packing.

Everything below assumes you fly into Srinagar or arrive by road from Jammu. The Jammu-Srinagar highway (NH-44) is about 270 km and, depending entirely on tunnel traffic and landslide closures, anything from six to twelve hours - budget a whole day and do not plan anything for the evening you arrive.

Srinagar - two days

More interesting than its reputation as a transit town suggests.

• Dal Lake and Nigeen Lake - a shikara ride at dawn, when the floating vegetable market is working and the water is still, is genuinely worth the early start. The same ride at 4pm is a queue.
• The Mughal gardens - Shalimar, Nishat and Chashme Shahi, terraced up the hillside above the lake. Nishat has the best view, Shalimar the best structure.
• The old city - Jamia Masjid with its wooden pillars, Khanqah-e-Moula on the riverbank, and the lanes between them. This is the part almost no tourist sees and it is the best part.
• Pari Mahal and Shankaracharya hill - both for the view over the whole valley at the end of the day.

On houseboats: a night on one is worth doing once, and the difference between a good one and a bad one is large. The ones moored on the quiet side of Nigeen Lake are a genuinely lovely experience. The ones packed together on the Dal boulevard end are noisy and the water is not clean. Book a specific boat, not "a houseboat".

The three side valleys

Gulmarg - a day trip, or one night

About 50 km and two hours from Srinagar, at 2,650 m. In winter it is India's main ski resort; in summer it is a large alpine meadow with a golf course. The Gondola runs in two phases - the first to Kongdoori, the second up towards Apharwat at about 3,980 m - and the second phase is weather-dependent and worth waiting for.

A day trip works. One night means you are there for the morning, which in winter is the difference between skiing and queueing.

Pahalgam - one night, two if you are walking

About 90 km and two and a half hours from Srinagar, at 2,200 m, where the Lidder river comes down. Greener and quieter than Gulmarg, and the better of the two if you want to walk rather than look. Aru and Betaab valleys are short drives further up, and the trek to Tarsar and Marsar lakes starts here - that is a three-to-four-day walk and one of the finest in the western Himalaya.

Pahalgam is also a base for the Amarnath yatra, which means that for a few weeks in July and August the roads and the town are extremely busy and heavily managed.

Sonamarg - a long day trip

About 80 km and two and a half hours east of Srinagar on the Leh highway, at 2,730 m. It is the last town before Zoji La, so it doubles as the first leg of a Ladakh trip - and if Ladakh is the plan, this is where you should sleep on night one for the altitude profile.

The Thajiwas glacier is a short pony ride or a 40-minute walk from the meadow. Sonamarg is closed by snow from roughly December to March.

Matching route to days

• 3 days: Srinagar and Gulmarg.
• 5 days: Srinagar, Gulmarg, Pahalgam - the standard valley trip, and a good one.
• 7 days: add Sonamarg and a day in Yusmarg or Doodhpathri, both of which are quiet meadows an hour or two out that almost nobody plans for.
• 10+ days: the valley plus Ladakh, going out over Zoji La. This is the best way to reach Ladakh - see the Ladakh guide for why the altitude profile matters.
• Trekking: add four days for Tarsar-Marsar or the Great Lakes trek, which is a week and is the reason serious walkers come to Kashmir at all.

Season

• April and May - the valley blossoms, then the tulip garden in Srinagar opens for a few weeks in early April. Cool, green, and the prettiest time.
• June to August - warm days, the peak domestic season, and the busiest. The high meadows and the trek routes are at their best.
• September and October - the best weather of the year. Chinar trees turn in late October and the valley is at its most photogenic with the smallest crowd.
• November to March - cold, quiet and cheap. Gulmarg's ski season runs roughly January to March. Sonamarg closes, the Jammu highway closes intermittently, and Dal Lake sometimes freezes at the edges.

Planning and safety, plainly

Kashmir is a region where conditions on the ground change, and nothing in an article written at one point in time should be treated as current. What is worth saying is the process rather than the verdict:

• Check your own government's current travel advisory and the local district administration's announcements before you book, and again before you leave.
• Internet and mobile services have been curtailed in the past with little notice. Download offline maps, carry cash, and do not build a plan that depends on being online.
• Follow local instructions at checkposts without argument, and carry ID at all times - for Indian nationals an Aadhaar or driving licence, for foreign nationals a passport.
• Hire local. Kashmiri drivers and guides know which roads are open today, which is information no app has.
• Avoid driving at night outside Srinagar, and avoid gatherings.
• Buy travel insurance that does not exclude the region, and read the exclusion clause rather than assuming.

None of that is a reason not to go. It is the difference between a trip that absorbs a closed road and one that is ruined by it.

Practical notes

• Vehicles - a standard hatchback does every road in this guide. Out-of-state private vehicles are common; inside the valley, a hired car with a local driver often works out easier and not much dearer once you account for parking and the Gulmarg road.
• Ponies and sledges - at Gulmarg, Pahalgam and Sonamarg you will be quoted a price for a pony, a sledge or a guide within thirty seconds of parking. Agree the price and the exact destination before you get on, not after.
• Shopping - pashmina, walnut wood and saffron are the real things and are also the three most faked things in the valley. Buy from a government emporium if you want certainty, or from a shop your host vouches for.
• Food - a wazwan is a serious, meat-heavy formal meal and worth arranging once. Day to day, the bakeries and the roadside kebab stalls are the best of it.
• Altitude - nothing in the valley is high enough for AMS to be a concern. Gulmarg's Apharwat at 3,980 m is the exception, and it is a gondola ride rather than a night's sleep, so it rarely matters.

Money and groups

A Kashmir valley trip is mostly flights or the Jammu drive, a hired vehicle, and rooms. The vehicle is per day regardless of how many people are in it, and the day trips to Gulmarg, Pahalgam and Sonamarg are each a full car for one fare - so four travellers pay less than half per head what two do for exactly the same itinerary.

Have a look at upcoming trips for Kashmir runs with seats going spare, or the travel clubs that go every spring for the blossom and every autumn for the chinars. Settle the money rules in advance with how to split trip costs fairly.

If you are heading on to Ladakh afterwards, read the Ladakh road trip guide before you fix your dates - the Srinagar side is the better way in, and that decision is worth making early.